Yosemite Snow and Water

Well, I finally decided to get round to paying Yosemite a visit -- and not before time. But with no-one interested in backpacking that weekend, I thought a day trip might be a good idea -- in view of the weather reports, that seemed chancy enough. The week had been getting steadily colder and colder in Oakland, and the weather forecasts for Yosemite were for sub-zero temperatures (zero C, that is) and snow down to 4,000 feet (ie. the level of the valley floor).

So, after checking that the main roads at least were open, with no snow chains required, I packed up all my camera gear and set off at about 6:30 am. I set off along I580, I205, and Cal Highway 120; ie. more or less straight there from the Bay.

The entrance to Yosemite Valley.

At the park entrance I found out that the snow had indeed been falling; there were several inches on the gound, and on the surrounding trees, making a beautiful early morning sight (well, 9:30, anyway). I120 was closed at Tioga Pass (not uncommon, I gather, as the road is at 9,945 feet there); but that's over on the east side of the park, and didn't affect me. But other roads in the park were also closed, so a planned hike round the end of Galcier Point Road to Glacier Point was off.

So rather than bypass the main valley by car and hike to it as planned, I ended up driving through, amidst hordes of tourists, including many busloads of Europeans. And this is the quiet season! Before getting to the valley (which is below the level of the park entrance) the snow ended, and the weather seemed to be reasonably warm. Looking hopeful!

Bridalveil Fall.

Yosemite Valley is an amazing sight. The valley is half a mile wide, with sheer 2-thousand-foot walls on either side; the waterfalls are spectacular in the spring, although somewhat quiet at the moment. The Bridalveil Fall is on the right, and El Capitan on the left, a staggering granite monolith with 2,800 feet of sheer cliffs. All around, the valley is ringed by sheer, jagged, ice-crusted mountains.

El Capitan: 2,800 feet of cliff face.

After an hour or so of gawking like the rest of the tourists, I drove up to the top of the valley and got ready for a bit of a walk. I had my big day pack, with lunch, extra clothes, and all my camera gear -- bar the tripod, which I discovered at the last moment had come back from loan with a bit missing! Still, never mind. So where to?

I had a look at the map, and thought that a walk up the main tourist trail would be worth it, to take in Vernal Fall and Nevada Fall. On the ascent, I decided to detour up to the top of the Panorama Cliff to get away from the crowds a bit, coming back via the falls; and also to get some good views. Also, it should be good exercise! I had originally planned to walk there from the same altitude... This map shows my route, and some of the main features of the valley. I went back later and took a picture from Glacier Point, which I've marked the (approximate) route on.

Half Dome, from the John Muir Trail.

Setting off, the path was pretty busy at first, as might be expected. The valley head shows signs of significant destruction from a flood in January; a sign back down the valley, where it was half a mile wide and flat-bottomed, indicated that the water depth there had been about 6 feet. Quite a flood.

The trail climbs up by the left side of the Merced River, offering amazing views of the sheer, breathtakingly high wall of rock opposite -- Panorama Cliff. Hang on, I'm going up there... oh well. After about a mile, the path crosses the river, then carries on up. Encouraging signs goad the tourists on with promises that Vernal Fall is just a little farther, but pretty soon the John Muir Trail branches off on the right. With an impressive thundering sound in my ears, I turn my back on the promised wonders and head off uphill -- steeply. I'll be back!

Half Dome, Mount Broderick in front of it, Liberty Cap, and Nevada Fall.

The path winds up many switchbacks, climbing the gentler slopes at the foot of the cliff. The views upwards are impressive, if somewhat daunting; but with pleasant woodland all around, and now off the main tourist path, it's a peaceful walk. It's pretty warm at this point; I'm wearing a T-shirt, like most people. There's just the very occasional tiny patch of snow.

I had lunch (stting on a convenient rock) just before the downward branch to Vernal Fall, and then carried on up the John Muir Trail. Another mile of winding, climbing trail takes me to the branch down to Nevada Fall. The views are getting steadily more spectacular; breaking out of the woodland for a while, Half Dome, Liberty Cap and Nevada Fall make quite a panorama.

Snow on the trail, at 6,700 feet.

Turning uphill again it's getting really quiet, as the trail begins the real climb up around the side of the cliff. More switchbacks, and more snow now, although it's melting quickly in the warm air. Still, it's time for a jumper now; the north-facing slope must be more or less permanently shaded. After what wasn't too bad a climb after all, I finally reached the top of the trail; at some 6,700 feet. I had climbed about 2,700 feet from the valley floor.

Looking down into the top of Yosemite Valley.

The views are pretty amazing; looking down on Nevada Fall from quite a height, and across to Half Dome and Liberty Cap, as well as down along the valley. Still, time is pressing on -- it's about 3:30 -- so I have to turn back after not too far, in order to make Nevada Fall and still get back before dark.

Nevada Fall; look closely and you'll see some people at the top. (close-up)

After going back down the last section of trail again, the path to the fall turns out to be pretty spectacular: basically a ledge cut into the right-hand cliff, which gradually bends left and opens out, with the fall at the end. The fall is, needless to day, spectacular; as with everything else here, it's hard to get to grips with the scale, until you make out the tiny figures of people standing at the top.

Liberty Cap, from the top of Nevada Fall.

The top of the fall is an expanse of rock ledges, with the river running through from a calm, inviting-looking pool on one side; and on the other, just a sheer drop for a few hundred feet. It's a pleasant place for a rest, immediately below Liberty Cap at the far side, rising almost vertically 1,400 feet from its base below.

Emerald Pool

At about 4:30 I decide it's time to head back down. The trail drops down -- literally -- between Liberty Cap and the falls; it's basically a steep, steep stair, switchbacking across the cliff face. It's pretty hard on the legs, but soon the trail is winding through some more tranquil woodlands beside the river. After crossing the river again, it transforms itself into a water-slide over flat rocks, and opens out into a beautiful, bright green lake; Emerald Pool.

Sliding and swimming are prohibited, in fact, and the reason soon becomes clear; walking to the end of the pool, the sound of Vernal Fall is echoing back from the surrounding cliff. Sure enough, at the end of the pool, the ground stops, and the river drops away...

Vernal Fall.

Finding the path down involves waliking up a steepish slab of rock to the left-hand side of the canyon, and descending by another near-vertical stair, passing by the mouth of a big, shallow cave in the cliff side. By the bottom my legs are aching, but I finally get a view of Vernal Fall.

By this time it's getting darkish -- the sun goes behind the canyon walls pretty early -- so I head on down pretty smartly. There are still loads of tourists on this part of the trail, surprisingly. I finally got back to the car at about 5:45. Total distance: about 10 miles, with 2,700 feet of gain. A very pleasant day hike. And I don't need my legs tomorrow...

Copyright (C) 1995-2006 Ian Cameron Smith.
visits since 18Aug05. Last modified: Tue Sep 19 23:57:33 BST 2006 ($Revision: 1.12 $)